Henry Zankov Steps Out of Fashion’s Shadows and Into the Spotlight

Henry Zankov is entering a major new chapter in his fashion career. After years of building his own colorful knitwear label and working behind the scenes at established fashion houses, the designer is now receiving much wider attention following his appointment as the artistic director of Diane von Furstenberg (DVF).

Zankov’s connection with DVF is not new. He first joined the company in 2014 as a knitwear designer and spent several years there before launching his own label, ZANKOV, in 2020. His time working with Diane von Furstenberg helped shape his approach to color and pattern, elements that later became important parts of his own design identity.

His namesake brand started with a strong focus on knitwear. Zankov became known for colorful designs, graphic patterns and unusual combinations of materials. Over time, the label expanded beyond sweaters and knitwear into a broader womenswear collection. Vogue noted that his work has increasingly moved toward establishing ZANKOV as a full womenswear label rather than simply a knitwear brand.

That growing reputation helped bring Zankov into the spotlight at this year’s New York Fashion Week. His first collection as DVF’s artistic director marked an important moment for the fashion house, which returned to the runway after nearly a decade. The Spring/Summer 2027 show took place on Manhattan’s High Line and featured recognizable DVF elements alongside Zankov’s own design ideas.

The collection included updated versions of the brand’s famous wrap-dress language, while also introducing bright colors, animal prints, graphic textures, suiting and modern silhouettes. Zankov aimed to respect the visual identity established by Diane von Furstenberg while giving it a contemporary direction.

At the same time, Zankov continues to develop his own label. His Spring/Summer 2027 collection explored influences from the 1960s, with sparkle, bold color and expressive textures playing important roles. The designer presented the collection shortly after his DVF debut, making the week particularly busy for his two fashion projects.

Zankov’s rise has been gradual rather than sudden. He has worked with major fashion companies, developed his own independent label and built a recognizable style around color, textiles and knitwear. In 2024, he was named American Emerging Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), further establishing his position within American fashion.

Now, with his dual role at ZANKOV and DVF, Henry Zankov is attracting attention from a much larger fashion audience. His latest work shows how a designer can build on an established brand’s history while also bringing a personal creative language to the conversation.